Filament Guide
What each type of filament we sell is good for, where it struggles, and the settings to start with.
Which filament for which job
| If you are printing | Start with |
|---|---|
| First prints, models and display pieces | PLA or PLA+ |
| Decorative prints with a shiny finish | Silk PLA |
| Functional parts, brackets and mounts | PETG or PLA+ |
| Parts that sit in a hot car | ABS or ASA |
| Parts that live outside in the sun | ASA |
| Flexible parts, bumpers and seals | TPU |
| High strength, high temperature parts | PA6-CF or PPA-CF |
Comparison table
These are starting points. The temperature range on the spool label takes priority, and it is worth printing a small test piece first.
| Material | Nozzle | Bed | Enclosure | Hardened nozzle | Heat resistance |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | 190 to 220°C | 50 to 60°C | Not needed | No | Low |
| PLA+ | 205 to 230°C | 55 to 65°C | Not needed | No | Low |
| Silk PLA | 200 to 230°C | 50 to 60°C | Not needed | No | Low |
| Wood PLA | 190 to 220°C | 50 to 60°C | Not needed | No | Low |
| PETG | 230 to 250°C | 70 to 85°C | Not needed | No | Medium |
| ABS | 240 to 260°C | 90 to 110°C | Required | No | High |
| ASA | 240 to 260°C | 90 to 110°C | Required | No | High |
| TPU | 210 to 230°C | 40 to 60°C | Not needed | No | Medium |
| PLA Carbon Fibre | 210 to 230°C | 50 to 60°C | Not needed | Yes | Low |
| PA6-CF and PPA-CF | 260 to 300°C | 80 to 100°C | Required | Yes | Very high |
PLA
If you are new to 3D printing, start here. PLA prints at low temperatures, hardly warps and gives clean detail on almost any printer. It is stiff and looks good, but it softens in heat, so keep it out of hot cars and direct sun.
Good for
- Models, figures and display pieces
- Prototypes and test fits
- Learning to print
Watch out for
- Softens from around 55°C
- Brittle if it takes a hard knock
- Nozzle
- 190 to 220°C
- Bed
- 50 to 60°C
- Enclosure
- Not needed
- Drying
- 45 to 50°C for 4 to 6 hours
PLA+
PLA+ is modified to be less brittle than standard PLA while printing almost as easily. Layers bond better and parts can take more bending before they snap. A good default if you want PLA's ease with a bit more toughness.
Good for
- Everyday functional parts
- Brackets, clips and holders
- Parts that get handled a lot
Watch out for
- Still not heat resistant
- Needs slightly higher temperatures than PLA
- Nozzle
- 205 to 230°C
- Bed
- 55 to 65°C
- Enclosure
- Not needed
- Drying
- 45 to 50°C for 4 to 6 hours
Silk PLA
Silk PLA has a glossy, almost metallic shine that hides layer lines well. No sanding or painting needed. Rainbow and multi-colour silk spools shift colour through the print, so no two prints look quite the same.
Good for
- Vases and decor
- Gifts and ornaments
- Cosplay details
Watch out for
- Weaker layer bonding than normal PLA
- Print a little slower for the best shine
- Nozzle
- 200 to 230°C
- Bed
- 50 to 60°C
- Enclosure
- Not needed
- Drying
- 45 to 50°C for 4 to 6 hours
Wood PLA
PLA mixed with fine wood fibres. Prints come out with a matte, wood-like texture and can be sanded and stained. Changing the nozzle temperature a little changes the shade.
Good for
- Decor and figurines
- Signs and plaques
- Anything you want to stain
Watch out for
- Can clog a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.6mm works better
- Weaker than standard PLA
- Nozzle
- 190 to 220°C
- Bed
- 50 to 60°C
- Enclosure
- Not needed
- Drying
- 45 to 50°C for 4 to 6 hours
PETG
PETG is the step up when PLA is not strong enough. It handles more heat, bends before it breaks and stands up to water and many chemicals. It still prints on an open printer, it just strings a bit more than PLA.
Good for
- Functional and mechanical parts
- Outdoor or wet environments
- Enclosures, mounts and containers
Watch out for
- Strings more than PLA
- Sticks very hard to smooth PEI, use glue stick as a release layer
- Nozzle
- 230 to 250°C
- Bed
- 70 to 85°C
- Enclosure
- Not needed
- Drying
- 60 to 65°C for 4 to 6 hours
ABS
ABS handles high temperatures and knocks well, and it sands, glues and paints easily. The catch is warping. It shrinks as it cools, so you need an enclosure and a well heated bed for bigger parts. Print it in a ventilated room.
Good for
- Car interior parts
- Electronics housings
- Parts you plan to sand or paint
Watch out for
- Warps and cracks without an enclosure
- Gives off fumes, ventilate your space
- Nozzle
- 240 to 260°C
- Bed
- 90 to 110°C
- Enclosure
- Required
- Drying
- 70 to 80°C for 4 to 6 hours
ASA
ASA prints much like ABS but does not fade or turn brittle in sunlight. With South African sun, it is the best choice for anything that lives outside all year.
Good for
- Outdoor fittings and brackets
- Garden and pool parts
- Car exterior parts
Watch out for
- Needs an enclosure like ABS
- Ventilate your space while printing
- Nozzle
- 240 to 260°C
- Bed
- 90 to 110°C
- Enclosure
- Required
- Drying
- 70 to 80°C for 4 to 6 hours
TPU
TPU bends, squashes and springs back. It is very hard to break and grips well. Print it slowly, and it works best on a direct drive printer. Bowden printers can manage it at low speeds.
Good for
- Phone cases and bumpers
- Seals, gaskets and feet
- Drone and RC parts
Watch out for
- Print slowly, around 20 to 30mm/s
- Absorbs moisture quickly
- Nozzle
- 210 to 230°C
- Bed
- 40 to 60°C
- Enclosure
- Not needed
- Drying
- 50 to 55°C for 6 to 8 hours
PLA Carbon Fibre
PLA filled with chopped carbon fibre. Parts are stiffer and hold their shape better than plain PLA, and the matte surface hides layer lines. It prints almost as easily as PLA, but it will wear out a brass nozzle.
Good for
- Stiff brackets and frames
- Jigs and fixtures
- Parts that need a clean matte look
Watch out for
- Hardened nozzle required
- More brittle than PLA+ in impacts
- Nozzle
- 210 to 230°C
- Bed
- 50 to 60°C
- Enclosure
- Not needed
- Drying
- 50 to 55°C for 4 to 6 hours
PA6-CF and PPA-CF
Carbon fibre filled nylons for parts that need real strength and heat resistance. They are very stiff, handle high temperatures and wear well. They need a printer that reaches high nozzle temperatures, an enclosure, a hardened nozzle and properly dried filament.
Good for
- Load bearing mechanical parts
- Parts near engines or motors
- Replacements for machined parts
Watch out for
- Must be dried before every print
- Needs a high temperature, enclosed printer
- Nozzle
- 260 to 300°C
- Bed
- 80 to 100°C
- Enclosure
- Required
- Drying
- 80 to 90°C for 8 to 12 hours
Storage and drying
Why it matters
Most filament slowly absorbs water from the air. Wet filament pops and hisses as it prints, strings badly and makes weak, rough parts. PETG, TPU and nylon are the most sensitive.
Storing spools
Keep spools you are not using in a zip bag or airtight box with silica gel sachets. Replace or recharge the sachets when they change colour. In humid coastal areas like Durban and Cape Town, filament left out can go bad within days.
Drying
A filament dryer is the easiest option, and you can print straight from most of them. Use the drying temperature listed for each material above. Avoid kitchen ovens, as they overshoot and can soften the spool.
Not sure which material suits your project? Email sales@kings3d.co.za with what you are printing and which printer you have.